gman0046,

I am running a 180degree thermostat.

Are you saying not to use a thermostat? I don't think thats a good idea.

What he's referring to is a restrictor plate in lieu of the thermostat. It does look like a large washer. They're available through SUMMIT RACING or JEG'S. It's an old racing trick and for some it works, for others it doesn't. For a street car in 90% of the applications, you want to run a thermostat so you have heat in the coolant sufficient enough to keep the water condensation out of your oil supply. It also maintains a consistant temperature in your motor. Make sure that your thermostat (180 is good for the street) is opening at 180 by testing it in a pan of water and a cooking thermometer. Test the water above the bottom of the pan so you're not getting the heat of the metal into the equation. Thermostats are mass produced and even new ones may be off.

The GMPP crate 350/330 or 300hp motors are not reverse flow design. They typically use the standard rotation water pump and fans.

The 210 degrees sounds scary, but for modern motors (GMPP crate motors included), it's not to be worried about. As long as the temperatures come back down to the 180-190 degree range when you start moving again, everything in your motor should be able to handle that temporary temperature range. Modern motors run at 205-220 degrees for emissions and condensation removal from the oil for short commute trips.

You want to look at your entire cooling system for issues. You need a clean radiator, a fan sufficient to cool the radiator and definately a shroud. Aluminum radiators will cool more efficiently than a copper brass, especially a two core 1" to 1 1/4" tube design over a four core 1/2" tube design. You need a water pump to move the coolant, a thermostat that opens when it's supposed to and coolant. You should be using a closed cooling system, so install a 16# radiator cap for a closed system and use an overflow tank. Distilled water is the best coolant, but does not have water pump lubricating abilities. That's why you use either antifreeze in a 50/50 or 70/30 mixture and/or a surficant such as WATER WETTER by REDLINE. That will aid in dispersing the bubbles in the cooling system allowing a better flow of coolant over the heated internals of the motor and radiator. Ribbed radiator hoses will interupt the flow the water causing bubbles. A lower hose w/o a spring to prevent collapse of the hose will restrict coolant flow.

Check your timing also. If your timing is incorrect you'll find a hotter running motor. If you're running a vacuum advance distributor on the crate motor, you might try hooking the vacuum supply hose to the full vacuum port instead of the timed vacuum port. That will usually show a small improvement in idle cooling since the advance mechanism is kicking in at idle. I don't think that's your issue.

It would seem to be that your issue is more along the lines of air flow when sitting at idle for a prolonged period. That's where an electric fan with a thermostat sensor to provide additional air flow may provide some relief. You say you have one already, so if it's possible to adjust the temperature when it kicks on, that may help. You also want to make sure that your cooling system is free of any trapped air pockets. When you fill your radiator, raise the front of the car up on jack stands or ramps to aid in releasing those air pockets that turn into steam pockets, although those usually are evident at idle and cruise conditions.

All in all, unless you have other related cooling symptoms, I don't think the temporary increase in temperatures should be unexpected or anything to worry about.

What he's referring to is a restrictor plate in lieu of the thermostat. It does look like a large washer. They're available through SUMMIT RACING or JEG'S. It's an old racing trick and for some it works, for others it doesn't. For a street car in 90% of the applications, you want to run a thermostat so you have heat in the coolant sufficient enough to keep the water condensation out of your oil supply. It also maintains a consistant temperature in your motor. Make sure that your thermostat (180 is good for the street) is opening at 180 by testing it in a pan of water and a cooking thermometer. Test the water above the bottom of the pan so you're not getting the heat of the metal into the equation. Thermostats are mass produced and even new ones may be off.

The GMPP crate 350/330 or 300hp motors are not reverse flow design. They typically use the standard rotation water pump and fans.

The 210 degrees sounds scary, but for modern motors (GMPP crate motors included), it's not to be worried about. As long as the temperatures come back down to the 180-190 degree range when you start moving again, everything in your motor should be able to handle that temporary temperature range. Modern motors run at 205-220 degrees for emissions and condensation removal from the oil for short commute trips.

You want to look at your entire cooling system for issues. You need a clean radiator, a fan sufficient to cool the radiator and definately a shroud. Aluminum radiators will cool more efficiently than a copper brass, especially a two core 1" to 1 1/4" tube design over a four core 1/2" tube design. You need a water pump to move the coolant, a thermostat that opens when it's supposed to and coolant. You should be using a closed cooling system, so install a 16# radiator cap for a closed system and use an overflow tank. Distilled water is the best coolant, but does not have water pump lubricating abilities. That's why you use either antifreeze in a 50/50 or 70/30 mixture and/or a surficant such as WATER WETTER by REDLINE. That will aid in dispersing the bubbles in the cooling system allowing a better flow of coolant over the heated internals of the motor and radiator. Ribbed radiator hoses will interupt the flow the water causing bubbles. A lower hose w/o a spring to prevent collapse of the hose will restrict coolant flow.

Check your timing also. If your timing is incorrect you'll find a hotter running motor. If you're running a vacuum advance distributor on the crate motor, you might try hooking the vacuum supply hose to the full vacuum port instead of the timed vacuum port. That will usually show a small improvement in idle cooling since the advance mechanism is kicking in at idle. I don't think that's your issue.

It would seem to be that your issue is more along the lines of air flow when sitting at idle for a prolonged period. That's where an electric fan with a thermostat sensor to provide additional air flow may provide some relief. You say you have one already, so if it's possible to adjust the temperature when it kicks on, that may help. You also want to make sure that your cooling system is free of any trapped air pockets. When you fill your radiator, raise the front of the car up on jack stands or ramps to aid in releasing those air pockets that turn into steam pockets, although those usually are evident at idle and cruise conditions.

All in all, unless you have other related cooling symptoms, I don't think the temporary increase in temperatures should be unexpected or anything to worry about.

You all are awesome thanks for the replies! Hot wheels thanks for all the detailed information I tried to e-mail you direct but I couldn't.

Thanks again!