fisheye problem
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fisheye problem
Posted: September 08 2005 08:11 PM
 
keith cornetet (aka keith83) [ View ] [ kmcornetet@peoplepc.com ] [ Car Ads ] [ Blogs ]
louisville, Kentucky
(502) 743-9124
 
I have a hood that is driveing me crazy and broke. I have painted then primed twice . (urathane ) Still has contamination coming through. Will sealer cover this or will i have to strip and start over. < Thanks , KEITH
 
 
Comments
 
Posted by Rods & Customs by Leon  -  09/06/2005 09:52 PM
I usestuff like that around the shop all the time, Yes it will cause problems if your not carefull, I NEVER use washed rags... ALWAYS new rags for everything. A good prep clean will take care of any contamanents considering that it don`t get sanded into the surfface. If a problem does arise and you do end up with fish eyes, a good sanding and an Epoxy Primer/Sealer will take care of it. Painting is not "brain surgery" it`s simply chimical componets. Understanding how they work is the key. Manufactorers have developed componets that will cure any issues. A painter is only an applicator the componets. the true finish is dictated by the prep work and the final finishing "sanding and buffing" It`s not a difficult process. Basicly, if the body & prep work is done right as well as the finishing, the application is a "No Brainer". ....I don`t mean to down play the role of Painting, but that is only a small part of the overall process.
Rods & Customs by Leon [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Highlands, Texas Charter Member since May 2004
 
Posted by keith83  -  09/07/2005 10:07 AM

ITS FIXED !!! Based on a similar experiance by my fellow rodder and local dupont distributer i put on 3 coats of water based primer. I let it set overnight and painted today. Looks great. Thanks for all your help. I'm going to get some bon-ami.



What speed do you guys buff at. Compound and glaze.?



Sign me old dog trying to learn new tricks., KEITH
keith83 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] louisville, Kentucky
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  09/07/2005 10:13 AM
i buff at low speed. buffing creates heat. while you buff check the surface. you'll be amased at how hot a spot will get if you stay on it too long.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by Red's Place Custom & Restoration  -  09/06/2005 09:23 PM
have you or anyone in your shop sprayed armour all or one of the silicon based products around the car, did you use a rag to wipe down the car that was in a wash load of clothes that may have had silicone on it. Most fish eye is caused by contamination of the surface, wd 40 will also cause problems. Always use a good quality pre kleaner before you sand an old finish I have seen people sand wax into the old paint and man that is crazy. Also if you have bare metal or body filler and use base coat paint and get the first coat too heavy it will also fisheye. Like shine said send a photo and a little better discription. Good Luck RED
Red's Place Custom & Restoration [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Charlotte, North Carolina
 
Posted by da34guy  -  09/07/2005 09:40 AM
An old trick, that will eliminate any and all fish eye problems,is---- Before you do anything to a panel, wash it with Bon Ami Cleanser. Don't use Ajax or any other brand as they all have perfume additives in them. Just Bon Ami! Another product on the market is TING. It takes the PAIN out of painting. Been using for over 30 years. Both will eliminate any fish eye problems. Good luck
Don [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Prescott, Arizona Charter Member since October 2001
 
Posted by MIKEMATLOCK  -  09/07/2005 03:33 PM
More time's than not it is not fisheye's it is a solvent popping problem. Especially when related to a flat surface where you tend to try to put to much material on and it has not had enough time to breath all the solvents out of the previos coat. Then your topcoat is trying to skin over and the first coats send solvent to the top and it pops right through and there is what you are seeing. Or if you do not have good enough air flow through your paint booth for the entire dry time. And come on guy's this is 2005 were not prepping cars with Bon Amie and not using tack rags come on, what is this a guy from Maco? Tack rags are a must unless you really like to sand and buff and want a big GD mess. As for painting being a no brainer, well thats where you can seperate the quality looking cars from the ones that well lets just say the less than quality cars. Buffing is a big part of the process but lets remember the prep work and the finish paint work are what shows, and yes there are way to many ametures out there trying to give unsound advise. Good luck with your project I hope it turns out well for you.
MIKEMATLOCK [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BERRYVILLE, Arkansas
 
Posted by bigdude  -  09/08/2005 12:06 PM

If that is fresh paint dont wax it.
resident know it all [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Three Rivers, Michigan Charter Member since January 2004
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  09/07/2005 04:58 PM
man you shood buff that ugly spot out of that door red
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by 29robert  -  09/07/2005 05:41 PM
Here's one for you. I bought my firsyt Model A when I was 15 (45 years ago) and didn't have the knowledge or money to do things the right way. The car had it's original black paint, but wasn't very shiny. Somehow I figured out that Colgate toothpaste made for a good rubbing compound. Went over the entire by hand with toothpaste and one of my mother's towels. Looked pretty good when I got done and my car smelled great to boot. My Mother just thought I had improved my dental habits. Wouldn't recommend using toothpaste today though!
29robert [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] La Verne, California Charter Member since November 2004
 
Posted by carpro1946  -  09/05/2005 09:34 PM
Sounds like contamination in your air lines or the cloths you are using to wipe down the hood.
carpro1946 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] hebron, Maryland Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by keith83  -  09/06/2005 01:53 AM
Thanks guys. I also painted door and fender. These are OK. I'll try some epoxy.
keith83 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] louisville, Kentucky
 
Posted by Red's Place Custom & Restoration  -  09/07/2005 04:48 PM
I don't know what speed my buffer runs at I can't remember that far back. I will tell you the process that I go through I am not saying it is right for everyone it just works for me. First I start with 1200 wet paper and sand out all the orange peel and dust ( if you hear a high pitch squeal it is dust traped in the paper scartching your surface stop and rinse both the sand paper and car ) After I am saisfied with the looks of part I next go to 1500 grit paper wet and do the same thing. What I am trying to do here is take out the 1200 marks ( practice will tell you when this is done it will actually start to shine alittle) then I go to 2000 grit wet and sand until the panel or car is shiny. Then I know that all the sandpaper marks are cleaned up. If you finish sanding with 2000 grit you will not have to stay on the panel for along time trying to get the shine. I start buffing with a wool pad on an electric buffer and a coarse compound. Then I switch pads and buff with a med cut compound, then I switch to a foam pad and buff with a fine compound , last I go to a fine foam pad and a glaze. I know alot of people will not agree with me but I have been doing this since the late 60's.I would cut and buff Acrylic enamel on restorations in the early 70 before anyone knew it could be done. Look at he picture it is the 32 door that I am doing now In the background is the roof of my shop and me behind the camera. That is straight paint no clear . If you need photos for my process just ask I am doing a 71 Mustang door tomorrow and will take pictures for you Good luck RED
Red's Place Custom & Restoration [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Charlotte, North Carolina
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  09/06/2005 07:34 AM
i dont know where the no tac rag came from but they're wrong. you need to send a pic. is it even all over or just spots.was the old paint orig. or could it have smoothy in it? have you tried fish eye eliminator? what kind of paint ?
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by keith83  -  09/06/2005 02:41 AM
I just did a net search on "fisheyes" One source says never use a tack rag, I have often wondered about this . Your thoughts /experiance on this. KEITH
keith83 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] louisville, Kentucky
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  09/07/2005 04:49 PM

oooooooo red , if dale was still around he's getcha over wd40 i miss ole dale. dale was a class act i tell ya. he'd get on my butt good but do it with class. not like some of the whiny police we've had lately. for those that remember him he's been honeydoing for a while, did a bang up job on mama's bathroom. i too used bon ami . in the old days wax and grease remover sucked. it left more crap on the surface than it removed. we used ting on the vans back in the 80's. helped with the prep since most of the prepers didn't have a clue to what they were doing. biggest mistake guys make is to get excited and get in a hurry. it'll bite you on the butt everytime.



here you go red. this is a 11 year old centari job. it was sanded and buffed slick.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by keith83  -  09/08/2005 03:48 AM
I was asking about buffing speed as my buffer has a speed control on it. As to the bon-ami my local dealership body shop uses comet and gray scuff pads on all bumper covers and other such irregular surfaces. 3-m sells a similar gritty substance in gell form. With the usual 3-m price tag. I've been sanding with 1500 then 2000 , buff with foam pad and perfect it 3 compound., then foam pad glaze. then hand wax. I still have some swirl marks when the light is at a certain angle. KEITH
keith83 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] louisville, Kentucky
 
Posted by keith83  -  09/08/2005 08:11 PM
Big dude, I got the stuff that 3-m recomends for new paint. It left a nasty film that i wound up buffing back off with foam pad glazing compound. ??? How long before regular wax ?? Thanks all , KEITH
keith83 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] louisville, Kentucky
 
Posted by Rods & Customs by Leon  -  09/05/2005 09:16 PM
a good epoxy primer will seal it, I use Dupont`s 1140S
Rods & Customs by Leon [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Highlands, Texas Charter Member since May 2004
 
Posted by Red's Place Custom & Restoration  -  09/07/2005 05:00 PM
looks like a SHINY spot to me
Red's Place Custom & Restoration [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Charlotte, North Carolina
 
Posted by Red's Place Custom & Restoration  -  09/06/2005 10:03 PM

the difference between an amatuer and pro painter is that the pro should know what to do when problems occur and an amatuer doesn't. That doesn't mean that only pros should spray paint it just means that we all start somewhere. Today there are very few good painters and a whole lot of real good buffers
Red's Place Custom & Restoration [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Charlotte, North Carolina
 
Posted by 1976  -  09/08/2005 11:34 AM

1800 rpm is best keep it moving but tahe your time it will tahe about 6-8 hr. good luck
1976 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] nicholasville, Kentucky
 
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