My gun has a 1.4 tip which seems to be a very popular number. I use it for everything but would like to hear more from some of you experts. Thanks , KEITH
Posted by carpro1946 - 03/17/2005 08:08 AM
SHHHHHHH! That was supposed to be a trade secret. No rust out here, used 30 # of mig wire on the 60. Just a few small spots.
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop - 03/12/2005 09:30 AM
they change guns faster than you can get use to it. i have a 1.3 and a 1.5. i just ordered a new iwata for clear. dont even ask about price. dont want folks to know big a fool i am. seriously i've been a painter for 35 years and have given in to the new systems. my old guns just leave too much work in sanding and buffing. with the cost of materials and people whinning about cost you have to cut down your hrs if you plan to make any money. i'll let you know how the new rigg works out.............shine
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good tip for base color. small for urethane primer.probably a 2.0 tip would be good.are you using a hvlp system? you need a good air supply here or you won't get very good result especially if your compressor can't handle the volume.
Well look at mr fancy pants,paying big bucks for spray gun. You know I've got about four or five guns that I ve used,and its the cheap piece of crap that seems to work the best.
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Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop - 03/12/2005 12:45 PM
retail was more than my farm payment. and they wonder why paint jobs cost so much. geez. i bought a lph 100. looks to be what suites my needs........for now. my new airbrush cost more than a binks. but it sure is nice. it's my flamethrower
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Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop - 03/14/2005 04:03 PM
i'll tell you big dude. the sidewinder cup and adjustable tip without a wrench sold me on the iwata. it was between it and the sata john uses but the needle thing made my decison. i'd hate to buy a outer/iner head and needle just to replace one. but it's a nice gun.
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I also have one of those cheapo HVLP guns that I use for primer work - seems to lay down material very nicely but for color I love my Iwata - good choice Shine (I hope you didn't pay too much - I thought mine was very reasonable).
Yeah, I know what you mean. You have to be carefull. I have been slowly experimenting on the Harleys BECAUSE I was afraid if I had to repaint one it was small.
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop - 03/14/2005 08:28 AM
when i do a car the paint belongs to them. when i'm finished the surplus goes home with them. i dont need 20 gallons setting on my shelf going bad. the savings on paint are'nt worth the gamble. i use top shelf materials andnothing else. i lost around 4k on the 55 because of sherman williams and got absolutly nothing from them. it aint over though. i'm going to pay them a visit soon.
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Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop - 03/16/2005 08:30 AM
i have 2 , 2 quart presure pots. one for clear and one for colors. i've had them since the 70's. i never could get around a car or van with 1 quart of paint. when your clearing as many at a time as we did you needed all the help you could get. real pain to clean up but worth it. i'm hoping with the new iwata i can get around with one cup.
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Shine, I know what you mean. I bought a clear gun about 5 years ago. Couldn't beleive I was stupid enough to pay that much but I did. Hated to do it but the I just wasn't happy with the texture in the High Solid clears. Better and worth the price I guess but nothing will spray high solids smooth enough for me. I hate to wet sand and buff so I work hard to get the clear on absolutely smooth. With the absolutely ripoff prices of top of the line clears{around 320 to 350 a sprayable gallon} you have to save material anyway you can. I do a lot of Harleys and I have been experimenting with the lesser priced urethane clears. I have been impressed with their performance so far.
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop - 03/12/2005 10:12 PM
be carful cpro, remember the 55. i had to repaint it because of the sorry ass sherman williams paint, it was their second line paint . the black was pitiful. looked like it had gas on it after buffing. looked great indoors but outside you could see thru to the coat underneath. i'll not change again even if the paints free. i use ppg now so i can use the same reducer and hardner in clear or single stage.
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I am using a DeVilbiss finish line with a 1.4 tip for base /clear with good results but i'm worried about wear on the plastic tip. I was thinking about getting a Sata. Anyone out there use these ? Anyone Know who makes Snap on guns ?
I bought the RP or reduced pressure gun. I tried a SATA HVLP gun and did not like the way it shot. I have used conventional guns all my life, and just have a hard time getting used to the slower gun movement necessary with the HVLP. They hade the RP gun just for old farts like me that have avoided the HVLP guns for this reason. I also believe that the gun atomizes better than the HVLP. They still meet the material transfer rates necessary to comply with most state regulations, but operate at about 30 psi aircap pressure. These guns will lay down a huge ammount of paint however, and must really be kept moving at a good clip. If you have shot conventional guns, you will love it, but if you have modified your techinque for HVLP spraying, you will probably get some sags in urethane until you learn to pick up the pace a little with the gun movement. I still shoot lacquer on Corvette restorations, and it shoots lacquer so smooth that you almost don't need to color sand! You will pay more for the Digital RP gun, but I think it is worth it. If I had to purchase one today and could only find it at list price. I would still buy it!
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop - 03/13/2005 08:24 AM
if you buy a sata dont plan on replacing the needle if you should happen to damage it.. they make you buy the whole kit. needle heads and all. a ripp off. snap on guns are exspensive clones. i would stick to what i had rather than go with either of those.
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I have researched getting a different gun. I just dont know if I want to do any more work because of my health. My neck and back give me fits whenever I paint any more so I dont know if I want to invest in another gun.I use a sharpe and prefer my devillbis over that.
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I bought one of the new SATA RP digital guns about 2 years ago, and it is without a doubt the finest shooting gun that I have ever owned. After shooting high pressure guns all my life, I never found a HVLP gun that I liked, but the Sata gun shoots like a high presure gun with material transfer rates like a HVLP gun. The gun has a digital air micrometer built into the handle, which I thought as of as a nothing but a gimmick when I first saw it, but I love it now! It allows me to repeat a setup perfectly, and I have no external micrometer to get in the way. The gun retails out at about $700, but you gan get it down to about $400 if you shop the internet discounters a little. I bought it with a 1.4 mm tip, and it shoots single-stage urethane and clears real nice. You will not be dissapointed in the performance of this gun!
Just started reading this discussion section recently---seems like this Shine guy and the Big Dude spend an awful lot of time on the puter rachet jawin. How do they find time to do any work???????????? I guess they are supermen. I been paintin for 40+years and finally retired 3 years ago but these guys know everything about every thing. Just had to put my piece in.
There's alot of good guns out there, and some very good paints. It's still you own perference as to what works best for you. I use to love my Devilbiss JGA,s for everything then the paints changed so I had to change my guns. I use a Sata with a 1.3 for color and a Devilbiss hvlp with a 1.4 for my clears. And I use a Devilbiss primergun with a 2.0. All paints have tech sheets available that recommend air pressure and tip size, consider that the paint companies spent millions testing thier products just to come up with directions on what works best in using there paint and making it come out right.
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop - 03/15/2005 08:42 AM
i agree bodyguy, my favorit jga has a serial# of 1. i put binks #7's in the production shop for guys to use. with a jga they'd sag just about every van. i still have about 15 '7's in boxes . i still like my old jga for primer and such. it's set up for urothane clears so it's a hoser. but like all the rest i had to finaly give in and get some hvlp's. first round of them were junk [sharps]. they work good for custom stuff but really suck as a clear gun. i chose the iwata because of the sidewinder cup and the adjustable head. an old friend has one and almost sleeps with it. theres a fella roaming the sites , gm34, that is about as sharp on paint as anyone i've ran across. if you run across him and have questions about guns or paint he can really help. as far as the paint mfg go they will lie when the truth sounds better. their main inteerst is fleet and repair productions. they care very little about overalls. a lot of body shop will not even concider an overall paint job.
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Ya know, after spending all that money on a SATA gun for color and clear, I still use an old Cambell Hussfield gun for primer! Paid less then $40 dollars for it 10 years ago at Home Depot. It has a Binks dripproof cup on it that is worth way more than the gun!LOL It will shoot even Polyester primer surfacers like water. I ruined a JGA that I had owned for years by having some gel coat set up in the gun. I figured that I would never again use a gun for primer or gel coat, that would brake my heart to throw away!
Thanks guys for all your feedback. I have decided to order a digital Sata but don't know whether to get a HVLP or what they call the "low pressure series" ? I have plenty of air but not a good exaust system in my shop. Anyone care to advise me on this and also for base clears do i get the 1.3 or 1.4 tip ? Thanks again , KEITH
Your right shine about all overs. Most shops here stay away from them also. Just don't move fast enough thru the shop and people don't whant to pay the price for the time it takes to do one. We still do one once in awhile here but it has to be a special thing, like a friend or great money.
Anyone ever use a pressure pot? I had one of those get paint harden up in it. Was not my fault either, ha!
Keith 83, get the HVLP. It puts out High Volume ( lots of paint ) Low Pressure ( less over spray in the air). Great for the home shop thing, saves the amount of paint you use. The gravity gun would be the best for you, less air needed.
Hey body guy about that paint pot thing ......those boogers from that that paint that sets up are a bitch hey? Mines been idle for a years now but it sure worked good on color.
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