disc brake drag
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disc brake drag
Posted: July 08 2008 10:33 AM
 
Ken Springhorn (aka REBORN55) [ View ] [ reborn55@msn.com ] [ Car Ads ] [ Blogs ]
De soto, Illinois
(618) 534-6902
 Ken
 
Replaced the front calipers on ragtop yesterday. Was puling --brake application at highway speeds. left wheel was hotter than the right. Have single pot under floor m/c with Midland power booster and in line residual valves etc. Was just wondering how much brake drag there should be. I have bled the brakes(all 4) and front rotors seem hard to turn(wheels not on yet), if I remember correctly they were like that before. Just curious--if this setup creates different parameters than dual cylinders. I imagine they will free up a little when I drive it. Thanks.
 
 
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Posted by protruck69orange  -  07/08/2008 11:01 AM
i have had both of these problems in the past. as far as front wheels hard to turn,check brake rod clearance from brake rod to master cylinder,shoud be around 1/8" clearance,if not will not let all the brake fluid release back to master cylinder, on front brakes pulling to one side ,if pulling to right check left rubber hose ,hose will rupture on inside letting it swell when applying brakes,causing all the pressure to go to the brake that is pulling. hope this helps
protruck69orange [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] kountze, Texas
 
Posted by Tweety37  -  07/08/2008 01:17 PM
Had a similar problem with my '37 Chevy with MII disc brakes. Replaced both calipers with rebuilts from a reputable parts store. Still had the exact same problem. Replaced rubber lines. Still had problem. It would pull hard when first hitting the brake pedal, then even out. I put up with it for quite awhile then pulled the calipers apart. One of them had a piston that was full of pits, and the pits had been filled with some sort of plastic material then machined. The brake fluid was eating the plastic and causing the piston to stick. I took the caliper back to the parts store and they replaced it at no cost even though the warranty was up. Needless to say, I took the replacement caliper apart before it went on the car.
Tweety37 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Bismarck, North Dakota
 
Posted by Red's Place Custom & Restoration  -  07/08/2008 05:10 PM
you said you have a single resivour master these we always call a fruit jar type, nowdays they are dangerous loose a hose or have a major leak anywhere in the system and you have no brakes at all whereas the dual master setup actually has 2 seperate systems one for front and one for rear. I bet if you look at the front brake line it runs into a Tfitting then to each wheel the wheel closest to the fitting will always stop first therefore pulling the car. If you go to the dual master and add a proportioning valve in the system and replumb all the lines you will have a better system and safer on also. If the master is lower than the wheelcyclinders and caliper leave the residual valve in the system they will prevent bleed back Hope this Helps RED
Red's Place Custom & Restoration [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Charlotte, North Carolina
 
Posted by REBORN55  -  07/08/2008 05:20 PM
Red--thanks for the info..I had planned on replacing the single reservoir after I had got the car..did not know it was single pot type. Wanted to replace with under the floor system, but needs modification due to x-frame. Firewall mount will come this winter. All is plumbed very nice and neat. This weekend is the first time it has pulled for me in close to the 1000 miles I have driven it. So I am off to test drive if rain stops. Thanks all for replies.
Ken [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] De soto, Illinois
 
Posted by REBORN55  -  07/09/2008 09:52 PM
Replaced rotors and right brake hose, bled all brakes and it stops straight as an arrow. will have to do til this winter. thanks
Ken [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] De soto, Illinois
 
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