Buffing questions
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Buffing questions
Posted: July 03 2008 02:27 PM
 
boop coupe (aka boop coupe) [ View ] [ frank8142@verizon.net ] [ Car Ads ] [ Blogs ]
clarksville, Maryland

 Frank Jones
 
I was reading on SPI's site about their recomended buffing process and have a few questions. Is it best to assemble some pieces before buffing? Does SPI sell the buffing pads and PRESTA 1500 /2000 polish? Tried calling but they maybe starting their 4th of July weekend early.

It says " on your first compounding of 1000-2000 wet sanding use ultra prest cutting cream and a white twisted wool pad, are they saying to wet sand with 1000-2000 and THEN use cutting cream and wool pad?

Is there a big difference in shine and smoothness after buffing ? Not quite there yet, but wanted to do some research on this. thanks and have a nice 4th.
 
 
Comments
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  07/03/2008 02:44 PM
buffing is harder than paint. i sand all the way to 3000. spend more time sanding than buffing. i tried presta but had no luck. barry loves it. all in how you buff. i use stuff called cleancut and i also still use 3m superduty for cutting. never sand edges or anyplace hard to get to. tape off all edges and peaks. sand only what needs it.



NEVER CLEAN THE PAD WITH A SCREWDRIVER !!!!!!!!!! it makes a cutting pad into a finish pad real quick.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by DaveHughes  -  07/03/2008 03:15 PM
There is a huge difference in the finish.. I will tell you how I do it and you can do it however you want- I have tried every method under the sun and this is the easiest and quickest with the best results I have found.. I start with 1500 DA -DRY- sand the whole car- then go back over it with 3000- again DRY- buff with 3m perfect it II 05973- with 3m pad 05734 then wash it- buff it again with 3m finesse it II 39003 with pad 05733 -wash it again and go over it by hand with you favorite glaze......There are a hundred different ways to achieve the same finish. this one works for me..I might add that after you sand it the second time I usually let it sit overnight and let it "breathe" as it seems to buff back better that way.. good luck if you need anything let me know. --Take Your Time-- cause you can really screw it up in a hurry if you arent carefull!!!!
DaveHughes [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] seaman, Ohio
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  07/03/2008 02:57 PM
i walk it all the way thru. 1000,1200,1500,2000,2500,3000.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by sellersrodshop  -  07/04/2008 01:12 AM
i sand with 1500, then 2000. clean cut with a white 3M foam pad, finesse it II with a grey 3M foam pad, then hand glaze with a microfiber towel. i also keep the speed set under 1500 rpm on the buffer. i've found that the higher the speed, the more swirl marks to remove.

shine, where do you get your clean cut? getting hard to find in my area & the website listed on the container is d.o.a.
sellersrodshop [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] old hickory, Tennessee
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  07/04/2008 10:58 AM
i get it at paint specialties in ft worth. guess i better stock up it. i dont like 3m's perfect it line. i tried presta with the black wool pad but just cant get it to cut like i want.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  07/04/2008 12:00 PM
i didnt think anyone else used slow speed. thats the problem i have with presta and even the 3m. they want high speed to heat. i like 3m super duty at low speed for cutting, then cjean cut on a foam pad. clean cut will put a finish on it like nothing else i've tried.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by DaveHughes  -  07/04/2008 12:36 PM
low speed?? They didnt make that dude to crank that fast for nothing!! You gotta sling that crap all over the shop.....wide open and lean in to it...lol-- thats about the quickest way I know to ruin alot of work...
DaveHughes [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] seaman, Ohio
 
Posted by BigAlBre  -  07/04/2008 07:30 PM
speaking of buffing what do you guy's use to get scratches out of the paint.... I had the 36 out in the light and it looks like someone crawled all over it with something scratching the hell out of it....
Big Al sittin back in paradise. [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] St Pete Beach, Florida Charter Member since June 1999
 
Posted by DaveHughes  -  07/04/2008 07:49 PM
Hey Al it depends on how deep the scratches of course- But I would use the 3m 05973 then the 3m finesse it II 39003 after that- if you have to sand it I wouldnt go any more than 3000. paint that is that hard ( because of age) will be hard to buff the sand scratches back out of..If You need anything more just drop a line to me or call if you want- I can walk you through it. By the way are you gonna make it to louisville this year??
DaveHughes [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] seaman, Ohio
 
Posted by boop coupe  -  07/07/2008 10:02 AM
I seem to be getting an education here. Has anyone aver tried system one? If you go on their site "SystemOneAPS.com" , ther is a small video of Jay Leno and the system one guys. Looks like a good product, wet sand , buff, buff, polish.
Frank Jones [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] clarksville, Maryland
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  07/07/2008 10:19 AM
they all lie. there is nothing easy about buffing. ppg, dupont has to be buffed real soon or it will be like polishing concrete. the spi is a softer clear and buffs easy. bakers sells the presta set up.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by boop coupe  -  07/07/2008 12:49 PM
Ok, what is clean-cut? and who sells it? I take it 3M super duty is a cutting cream and clean cut puts the finish touches on it. And maybe removes any swirls?
Frank Jones [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] clarksville, Maryland
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  07/07/2008 01:19 PM
3m super duty is old school cutting compound . most painters dont use it. i cut it with it untill i have the finish i want then hit it with clean cut and foam pad to polish. clean cut is the brand name.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by boop coupe  -  07/08/2008 11:33 AM
I notice they make alot of different 3M perfect it ll products. I really like 3M products. where is a good place to purchase these products and pads? I was really hoping to find someone who has at least tried the system one product / good or bad.
Frank Jones [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] clarksville, Maryland
 
Posted by boop coupe  -  07/10/2008 07:36 AM
Dave, What is the difference between perfect-it ll and finesse-it ll ? Is the perfect-it ll for cutting and finnese-it ll for polishing? I am not sure about your stock numbers for the pads, Is the first one a wool pad and the second one a foam pad? What color are they? Once you color sand and buff, is it safe to spray some finish polish or wax por the paint or does that seal it? Should you wait to do this? I like the idea of color sanding and let it set out in the sun for a day to release solvents before buffing, makes sense to me.
Frank Jones [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] clarksville, Maryland
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  07/10/2008 08:03 AM
NO WAX ! it is not needed and will cause problems. i dont care what the wax wizzards say. wax is for uv protection. urethanes dont need it. after 90 days i use 100% canuba wax just because i like the feel and smell.
wool pads leave deep swirl marks. foam pads dont. dont plan on buffing out any scratches. i sand from 1k all the way to 3k . spend more time with finer grits and get rid of ALL of the 1k scratches.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by jsrodder  -  07/10/2008 10:49 AM
Shine is absolutely right......Again. No wax for 90 days. I always spend lots of time color sanding it will produce a much deeper shine and less work with the buffer. I too start with 1,000 and step it up through to 3000. I have always used 3m products for buffing.
rockymountainrods.com [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Aztec, New Mexico
 
Posted by boop coupe  -  07/10/2008 11:17 AM
Thanks, I am clear on the wax and I agree with you about the carnuba wax, 90 days -got -it.

I will color sand throught the steps. thanks!
Frank Jones [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] clarksville, Maryland
 
Posted by DaveHughes  -  07/10/2008 01:57 PM
The 3m numbers are straight off the pads- The first one is a cutting pad- It is white and made like a foam type pad with waffle pattern- the second pad is foam and black with waffle style also. Shine is right Try not to buff out sand scratches- Final sand with 3000 and it will save you lots of time buffiing- You are correct about the compounds- first one was gritty- second is not... I have waxed freshly buffed paint but there is really no need. Mostly all it will do is cover up areas that were not properly buffed.. it will look good at first then fade back and look terrible. Anything else just let me know-- Good luck!!
DaveHughes [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] seaman, Ohio
 
Posted by boop coupe  -  07/17/2008 11:40 AM
What is the best way to hand buff areas that cant be done with the buffer? Thanks for the great advise on buffing. It is going very well. When she starts to come alive and shine, you fall in love all over again.
Frank Jones [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] clarksville, Maryland
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  07/17/2008 11:59 AM
dont sand areas you cant buff !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thats why you have to plan ahead. make sure tight spots det slick. hand rubbing urethane is almost impossible. 3 m super duty is all i know of that will cut by hand. all others need high speed and heat.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by jsrodder  -  07/17/2008 12:36 PM
I use a small 3" buffer for tight spots. Just make sure that you sand them with as fine a paper as you can to remove your defects and orange peel, so that you don't have to buff real hard or long in those hard to reach areas to remove sand scratches.
rockymountainrods.com [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Aztec, New Mexico
 
Posted by jsrodder  -  07/17/2008 12:50 PM
Shine, I went to a 3m seminar last night. They have come out with new compounds and polishes. And it sounds like they are going to phase out all of the older compounds so they don't have to continue paying for the patents on each different product each year. So if you like the super duty you might want to stock up while you can get it. Personally, the super duty is to coarse for me, esspecially if you have allready sanded to 3000 the super duty would leave a scratch deeper than the 3000.
rockymountainrods.com [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Aztec, New Mexico
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  07/17/2008 01:38 PM
i like it on a foam pad. i just dont like todays polishes. i buff at low speed so they dont work to well for me. i can get there much faster with super duty and foam then switch to clean cut. old dogs are hard to train
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
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