suspension questions for my 40 ford coup
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suspension questions for my 40 ford coup
Posted: May 17 2008 08:13 PM
 
Bill Vorachek (aka k9hotrod) [ View ] [ Email ] [ Car Ads ] [ Blogs ]
Travis AFB, California
 
I just purchased a 1940 ford coup that has a mustang 2 IFS and a latter bar rear suspension with QA1 coil over shocks. I want to know if there is anything I can do to make the car handle better. I dont have a lot of money so those of you who suggest I get a new chassis, I could only wish. Is there anything I can change on the front to help. The front has just standard springs and some no name shocks, I dont know the spring rate on the front. Thanks for any help
 
 
 
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Posted by sloper38  -  05/17/2008 08:40 PM
Is there a sway (anti roll) bar on the front? Most aftermarket kits leave them off, factory always has them. They do make a difference.
I'm X38 on any other sites. [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Sydney, Australia
 
Posted by k9hotrod  -  05/17/2008 08:47 PM
I'll have to look. Funny that I didnt think of that. It definately feels like ithe issue is in the front end. It kinda pushes in the corners. I was thinking it may be the spring rate but the dang thing, you feel EVERY bump in the front end. I was thinking of getting lighter springs but good God, I'd like to have some sort of comfortable ride. Thanks.
k9hotrod [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Travis AFB, California
 
Posted by ronhotrod  -  05/17/2008 09:23 PM
two things, 1) have a GOOD alignment tech check the settings, sounds like caster/chamber is out 2) see if there is a vibration dampner in the steering linkage from the column to the rack. Lots of these are left out due to the cost but makes a car FEEL 100% better while driving. If you have a double D type shaft you can splice a dampner in without alot of trouble. It will make a ton of difference.
ronhotrod [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Mount washington, Kentucky Charter Member since July 2001
 
Posted by rt39coupe  -  05/18/2008 03:38 AM
The sway bar and alignment are great suggestions. It that isn't enough, try changing the springs out to Air Springs/bags. Air Ride Technologies is the leading company that offers a conversion kit that will give you complete adjustiility to the firmness and ride height. You also want to make sure you have an anti-sway mechanism in the rear suspension. If the front is tight and the rear not, then you will still have a problem. Ladder bar supsension usually use a panhard bar or or center drag link to keep the rear axle from moving from side to side, but that does not do anything for the sway. You still need a sway bar from the axle to the frame.
rt39coupe [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Houston, Texas
 
Posted by sloper38  -  05/18/2008 04:35 AM
Now I'm confused. is it ride or handling you're chasing? If it's riding hard, could be springs , shocks or both. to do a simple spring test take out the front shocks a bounce the car - it should bounce gently and easily in which case the shocks may be too stiff and killing the ride. Iit doesn't want to bounce easily, the springs are too stiff. If this is the case test the new softer springs as mentioned, before refitting shocks. weel, that's the front taken care of.


Still fit a anti roll bar.


Hope this helps
I'm X38 on any other sites. [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Sydney, Australia
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  05/18/2008 10:11 AM
sloper is right. a mll without a sway bar will be an ill handling mess. i would do front and rear. remember these cars dont set nose high like the mustang the are diving into the corner to start with.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by aosborn  -  05/19/2008 01:44 PM
What kind of bushings are on the ladder bar ends where it attaches to the frame? If they are Heim joins, they are probably shot if they have been in there for any length of time. Replacing those with urethane bushings will help. Ladder bars are not designed for handling, they are for straight line acceleration only and are probably the worst system to run on the street. To improve handling in the rear, the cheapest would be to go with leaf springs and re-use your shocks without the springs on them, as they are quality units. As for the front end, is it power or manual steering? Knowing that will help to determine the best front end settings for your car. An anti-roll bar with urethane link and frame bushings will tighen up the responsiveness of the front end for sure. If you are feeling every bump in the front end, go to a lighter spring rate. You can get springs at your local parts store for cheap. Use the "V8" springs for a big block car, and the "V6" springs for a small block. That should get you close, then put on some good quality shocks, KYB's are excellent and reasonably priced.
aosborn [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Olympia, Washington
 
Posted by jdboes  -  05/19/2008 07:02 PM
My 36 conv. did fine with out any sway bars but the car sat super low with bags and a late model rear suspension. My point is that the rear can relate to the front. If your car sits high in the rear, and has a high center of gravity I'd put a sway in the back as well as the front. Can I ask what kind of 'ladder bars' are on the back? Is it a P&J setup?
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Posted by dakotah  -  05/20/2008 04:47 PM
Yea ,I'd go w/ a sway bar in the front and rear for better handling. Seems I heard not to put one in just the back as it makes things squirelly. Even w/ softer springs ,the sway bar will help handling ,especially w/ a heavier car.
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