Brakes for the 41 Olds
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Brakes for the 41 Olds
Posted: January 25 2006 06:23 PM
 
Jim Hardy (aka farmer) [ View ] [ vhardy@adams.net ] [ Car Ads ] [ Blogs ]
Carthage, Illinois
(217) 845-3721
 

I've been working on a brake set up on and off since last fall. Clearance problems and how to modify etc. Looked through old post as far back as I can and now maybe I can ask the right questions. The assembly that looks to fit best is from a 87 S10. The pedal assembly will need to be lengthened and offset to the left to clear the steering column and reach the floor. Shine mentioned in an old post about a problem with the proportioning assembly popping a plug after stretching the pedal arm, is this a serious problem?



Mounting on the firewall is tight between cleaaring the valve covers and the fender and hood hinge. The S10 master cylinder ports on the left adding to the clearance problem. Using a 90 degree fitting will cure this but I'm concerned about restricting the fluid with the 90.



If the 90 degree is a problem can another m/c be used with the S10 prop valve and booster?If so any suggestions as to which one.



Front brakes are MII and rear are ford drum.



Thanks for any suggestions and I hope I can get the pictures up.



Jim



 
 
Comments
 
Posted by farmer  -  01/25/2006 05:45 PM

Well its done right or wrong its done. Ended up using a 88 Cutlass pedal/booster/mc assembly. It was a simpler bracket ad the pedal will require less fabricating. The S10 mc and booster appear to the same. Bore is same and has the same casting id. The photos are coming. Thanks for all the input and advice.



Jim
farmer [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Carthage, Illinois
 
Posted by farmer  -  01/25/2006 06:23 PM

So far just straightened out the bend at he bottom. May not have to lengthen will wait and see how it feels with the seat in final position.
farmer [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Carthage, Illinois
 
Posted by Willys33  -  01/11/2006 07:38 PM
Jim, have you taken a hard look at mounting the M/C and booster under the floor? If you are using Ford Brakes why not use Ford M/C and booster combo. I used them on a '50 Chevy and they worked better than the 'Vette M/C, booster and larger rotors.
Get off the trailer and drive [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Alamogordo, New Mexico
 
Posted by farmer  -  01/11/2006 07:48 PM

Room would be the problem. That was my first thought also but to get the exhaust past the frame and a booster m/c would have been more trouble than I am facing now.
farmer [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Carthage, Illinois
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  01/25/2006 05:51 PM
just remember if you lenghten the pedal it will still blow the plug.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by ronhotrod  -  01/11/2006 07:55 PM
Brake pedal are made with a ratio of leverage to apply needed pressure to apply the brakes. Lengthening an arm disstorts the ratio and increases leverage power. Several obtions are available. 1) use a 90 degree assembly to mount everything under the dash INSIDE the car 2) as willys33 mentioned an under the floor set could be used with a remote booster located in the rear where there is more room, 3) use the undwer the floor model and extend the rod from the pedal to the m/c-booster via a longer ord to locate everything back 12 to 24 inches. To sure to use a minimum of a 3/8 inch rod and support it so as not to allow flex in the rod when the brakes are applied. Also use a remote fill unit to make it all work. Just food for thought
ronhotrod [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Mount washington, Kentucky Charter Member since July 2001
 
Posted by Billnthemale  -  01/11/2006 09:15 PM

This is one that I made myself for my 40 chev with almost the same frame and I have a 700R in it. If the pattern for this unit would help I would send it to you when I get home the 12th of March. It is tight in a couple of places with 7" booster and Corvette cyl. but plenty of room for heat sheilds and 2 1/4' exh.
Billnthemale [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Chesterfield, Missouri Charter Member since April 2005
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  01/12/2006 08:31 AM
there is a rubber plug in the proportioning valve. with the lenghened pedal you can apply enough pressure at start up to blow the plug and cause a leak. solution ..... dont apply hard pressure when you start up. the s10 works great. i use the entire assy and usualy the colum too. there cheap and everywhere.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by maniac  -  01/11/2006 08:28 PM
I have the Ford master cylinder and booster under my floor right alongside of my turbo 400 its tight but it works.

I used a ECI mounting bracket so I could use the stock 38 Chevy brake pedal and pedal ratio.

I made a sheild for the booster and ran the exhaust right under it, no problem at all.

maniac [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Bethel, Connecticutt
 
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