Radiator over flow tube
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Radiator over flow tube
Posted: May 07 2007 09:45 PM
 
Dale Smith (aka buick1) [ View ] [ dlsmith1@comcast.net ] [ Car Ads ] [ Blogs ]
Indianapolis, Indiana
(317) 849-4284
 
I had a Griffin radiator built approx. 10 years ago. Lately I have smelled anti-freeze, but couldn;t find where it was coming from. Coming home from Knoxville we smelled it a couple times more, in checking I found the catch tank was 3/4 full and a 3-4 hours later it had not been drawn back into the radiator, so I checked further. I took the cap off and noticed the over flow tube had a serious leak a 1/4" from the filler leak. Erosion type hole, just before the hose end. The radiator shows no signs of similar problems elsewhere though.


I am considering cutting the tube off but leaving the bung so to speak in the neck, drilling out to size and tapping with a 1/8" pipe thread and installing a brass barb fitting. I would use some anti-seize too.


Any comments on such?


Thanks,



Dale

Indy
 
 
Comments
 
Posted by Rods & Customs by Leon  -  05/07/2007 09:54 PM
If you have corrosion starting in one spot its not long before you find it somewhere else, If the budget is a consideration, try fixing it. If it last a while your in good shape, Or you could just replace the whole radiator, Like you said, it is ten years old. Can you see inside of it, how does it look
Rods & Customs by Leon [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Highlands, Texas Charter Member since May 2004
 
Posted by buick1  -  05/07/2007 10:00 PM
It looks like new inside. I can afford a new one, but won't until I see signs of other problems.


Thanks,



Dale

Indy
buick1 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Indianapolis, Indiana
 
Posted by ronhotrod  -  05/07/2007 10:18 PM
I talked at length with Buddy Griffin at a trade show a couple of years back about radiators and problems. Here's what he told me.

1) the radiator MUST be full at all times. the churning of the coolant creates bubbles which in turn create a friction type of electricity. This is what 'eats' a radiator according to him. He recommends that you ground the radiator itself to a good chassis ground and keep it full. 2) he says an aluminum radiator should NOT use the green anti-freeze as it can also lead to corrosion of the aluminum. Use the newer pink colored stuff because it was formulated for alum radiators and engine componnets. 3) never mix types of metals. He says not to use steel or brass connections on an aluminum tank. Stick with aluminum.

I have not had to make any repairs, but did follow the rest of his advice and so far so good. No problems with my aluminum radiator that is about 6 years old. Mr Griffin is a very nice guy that was very willing to sita nd talk with us. Hope this helps you
ronhotrod [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Mount washington, Kentucky Charter Member since July 2001
 
Posted by buick1  -  05/07/2007 10:25 PM
Thanks for all you comments. I'm NOT saying that he is wrong, he should know, but the green stuff says, GOOD FOR ALUMINUM.


Thanks again ronhotrod.



Dale

Indy
buick1 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Indianapolis, Indiana
 
Posted by 32Canuck  -  05/07/2007 10:46 PM
This article is just a hint of what is out there for "Aluminum Corrosion" Just Google the key words.

RonHotRod is almost bang on with his comment. Read this and draw your own conclusions.


Aluminum is more vulnerable to electrolytic corrosion than either copper/brass or cast iron because aluminum is a highly reactive metal. When the corrosion inhibitors are used up and the pH of the coolant drops to 7 or below, aluminum becomes a sacrificial anode and is eaten away.


This same type of corrosion can also occur even when the coolant is in good condition if the engine does not have a good ground connection. Voltage from the charging system will flow through the coolant to ground, creating electrolysis corrosion that attacks the components in the cooling system.


Checking the pH of the coolant with chemically-treated test strips can help you determine if the coolant is overdue for a change. The alkalinity of a typical antifreeze/water mixture will vary depending on the additives in the antifreeze and the ratio of ingredients, but is usually somewhere between 8 and 11. The average for most antifreezes is around 10.5, but when diluted 50/50 with water and added to the cooling system the pH drops to the 8.5 to 9 range. Higher is not necessarily better, though, because some of the new long-life coolants have a pH of only 8.3. Staying power is what counts.


Traditional antifreeze formulas for domestic applications with aluminum radiators, cylinder heads or blocks contain a high level of silicates (which is not really needed in cast iron engines with copper/brass radiators). Silicates form a protective barrier on aluminum that protects the metal. The additives used in European and Asian OEM antifreezes, however, are different. The Europeans use less silicates and rely mostly on borates to inhibit corrosion. Their antifreeze also contains no phosphates because hard water can react with phosphates to form calcium and magnesium sediments. The Asians use phosphates but no borates and low or no silicates because they say borates may actually add to the aluminum corrosion problem if the coolant is neglected. The new long life coolants use an entirely different corrosion inhibiting chemistry that uses carboxylate organic acids instead of the silicates, phosphates or borates. Getting rid of the silicates, some say, helps extend the life of the water pump seal because the microscopic particles of silicate in conventional antifreeze are abrasive.


Regardless of what type of antifreeze you use, it should be meet OEM specifications and be "aluminum-safe" if the radiator is aluminum.
32Canuck [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Victoria BC, Canada Charter Member since December 2006
 
Posted by sixguns  -  05/07/2007 10:54 PM
Green [ conventional ] coolant is good for about two years, maybe yours is past its life? the way coolant protects from corrosion is by coating the metals, thats why its important to keep it full, with a recovery tank that should not have been an issue. your repair idea sounds good to me.
Enjoy the Ride [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Woodland, Washington Charter Member since June 2002
 
Posted by 31tudor  -  05/08/2007 05:08 PM
Man I love this site! Answers to questions I've never even considered make me a smarter guy!
Eric Hibbs [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] St. George, Utah Charter Member since January 2002
 
Posted by flagator79  -  05/08/2007 05:33 PM
10/4 to that. I just smile when I read these responses. I thought to my self a minute ago that we have alchemists on the site, reactive engineers, metal physists etc. Great place to be and all of this advice given free of charge. Thanks to you really smart folks. I very much appreciate and enjoy your wisdom (don't let this go to your heads though )

The Professor
If the world was fair, the worm would eat the bird half the time [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] West Monroe, Louisianna Charter Member since December 2005
 
Posted by Streetrodder007  -  05/08/2007 09:27 PM
Maybe installing an anode in the bottom of the core would help draw the corrosion. only $10
Streetrodder007 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Port Huron, Michigan Charter Member since April 2006
 
Posted by 32Canuck  -  05/08/2007 10:55 PM
Streetrodder007's comment is also right..When you have two dissimilar metals (i.e. aluminum/copper) one of them becomes the sacrificial lamb, this is where the anode plays the part of the guy in the white hat and gets eaten away first. Just ask any boater that keeps his boat in saltwater. Even your humble hot water tank in your house (depending on your water quality) has a sacrificial anode to try and stop the galvanic corrosion process.
32Canuck [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Victoria BC, Canada Charter Member since December 2006
 
Posted by dixie  -  05/08/2007 11:01 PM
What about the red top radiator caps you see adv. in the mags for this very perpose ? do they work?
jim grace [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] dade city, Florida Charter Member since January 2006
 
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