Radiator catch tank, INEXPENSIVE?
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Radiator catch tank, INEXPENSIVE?
Posted: April 08 2007 02:33 PM
 
Dale Smith (aka buick1) [ View ] [ dlsmith1@comcast.net ] [ Car Ads ] [ Blogs ]
Indianapolis, Indiana
(317) 849-4284
 
I have a LT-1 engine running a Griffin rad. and looking for an INEXPENSIVE catch tank.


Thanks,

Smitty
 
 
Comments
 
Posted by DavyJ  -  04/08/2007 02:44 PM
Smitty, what do you call inexpensive? The stainless tanks are pretty cheap, run less than $35. Check any of the suppliers in our advertisers here.
Still driving the wife's car, cause I am slow. [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Niagara Falls, Canada Charter Member since February 2005
 
Posted by Willys33  -  04/08/2007 04:32 PM
The LT1 or LT-1? Which one do you have? If it's the late model (fuel injected) then it runs a little hotter than your average and the water will expand more. I had to add a second overflow to take up the slack. The cooling system must be full at all times else you will introduce air into the system and reduce the effectiveness of the entire cooling system. Go big!
Get off the trailer and drive [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Alamogordo, New Mexico
 
Posted by buick1  -  04/08/2007 08:32 PM
I didn't do a good job explaining what I am looking for. Here goes again.


I want to build or find something DIFFERENT to use a a catch tank. I was thinking something like a food canister, or whatever rather than one I can purchase. I thought someone might have seen or done something a tad different.


I have a crate 1996 Vette fuel injected motor, it run around 197 on the road, and hasn't ever been over 210 in town, but the tank I am using is not what I want.


Sorry for not spelling it out better ,


Smitty
buick1 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Indianapolis, Indiana
 
Posted by DavyJ  -  04/08/2007 08:42 PM
Ah , Smitty that makes more sense, If you know anyone involved in industrial safety, there are nice spun aluminum tanks that come filled with sample gases for testing lab equipment. Kind of looks like a beer bottle shape with a small screw on lid. They are fairly plentiful since they have an expiration date and must be replaced every 6 months. I have seen them from 6" to 18" tall and about 2" to 6" in diameter. good luck
Still driving the wife's car, cause I am slow. [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Niagara Falls, Canada Charter Member since February 2005
 
Posted by bigdude  -  04/08/2007 08:46 PM
I ran a cooler once-got alot of questions about it saying "thermos".
resident know it all [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Three Rivers, Michigan Charter Member since January 2004
 
Posted by buick1  -  04/08/2007 09:04 PM
bigdude, NOW we are beginning to come up with something different. You too Davy. I know there must be other ideas out there, and I Thank You for your thoughts. I have a neat THERMOS quart spun stainless that I haven't used for years, I can drill the stopper and epoxy my tube through such. How far from the bottom should I go with my tube?


Smitty
buick1 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Indianapolis, Indiana
 
Posted by bigdude  -  04/09/2007 08:43 AM
I would use that for the bottom with the tube flush with the inside. That way it will run back into the rad when it starts cooling.
resident know it all [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Three Rivers, Michigan Charter Member since January 2004
 
Posted by tlp1968  -  04/09/2007 10:37 AM
I used a pepsi can in my old drag racing days...but right now I use a windshield washer container from a 78 Camaro. It had its own holder and fit nice on the core support. Not very creative but it works. You might try looking at the stuff from McMillan Rod & Customand Clayton Machine Works they both do alot of original stuff. Sometimes places that do custom work like a challenge too.
StreetRodding.com Marketing Director [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Springfield, Illinois Charter Member since August 2003
 
Posted by lost34  -  04/09/2007 11:01 AM
no matter what you use,leave about 1/2 to 1 inch gap between the bottom of the "tank" & the hose. when the coolant "returns" into the radiator it will not pick up any crud,mud, etc.
lost34 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Reading, Pennsylvannia
 
Posted by tlp1968  -  04/09/2007 11:17 AM
Good comment lost34, it is also a good idea to have a convenient way to remove it and clean it out from time to time. Maybe one of you can design some cool looking tank and I will change too!
StreetRodding.com Marketing Director [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Springfield, Illinois Charter Member since August 2003
 
Posted by bigdude  -  04/09/2007 12:28 PM
What? If you got that much crud in your rad-you got problems or maybe a Ford.
resident know it all [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Three Rivers, Michigan Charter Member since January 2004
 
Posted by buick1  -  04/09/2007 08:40 PM
Doesn't the cooling down process SUCK the fluid back into the rad, so no need to install the tube up thru the bottom, RIGHT?

I bet bigdude will be FIRST in line at the 75th. party for the 32 in Detroit this summer. I don't own a ford right now, but OH HOW I WISH I STILL OWNED MY NEW 1967 COUGAR 427 GTE. OH BROTHER, WHAT A MISTAKE TO SELL THAT BABY. VERY FEW PEOPLE HAVE EVER SEEN ONE, less than 500 were produced. $5,200.00 with the $1,700.00 engine option, That was a lot in 67., for sure.

Smitty
buick1 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Indianapolis, Indiana
 
Posted by tlp1968  -  04/09/2007 07:17 PM
I think that depends on if it is an open system or not. My radiator has a nipple just below the cap that need to have a tube on it. As for the crud Bigdude, I don't think most of our cars have alot of grit and stuff but just in case a good rule of thumb to not have the tube touching the bottom.
StreetRodding.com Marketing Director [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Springfield, Illinois Charter Member since August 2003
 
Posted by buick1  -  04/09/2007 08:41 PM
My Griffin rad. has the tube coming out just below the cap, and I ran a hose from it to my catch tank. I also ran a second hose near the top, on the side of the catch tank as a overflow exit. I am not going to do such this time as I see no need to do this. Don't a lot of the radiators on the market today build an overflow into the system ? I haven't been close to street rodding for sometime now, so need to get current info. Thanks.

Smitty
buick1 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Indianapolis, Indiana
 
Posted by cruiser63  -  04/09/2007 08:31 PM
Dale,if you dont need a metal one jaz products makes a 1 quart heavy plastic one in different colors .I picked 1 up at a swap meet for $10.00 it was even the right color. Dont know how much they are new. Ron http://www.jazproducts.com/
cruiser63 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Plain City, Ohio Charter Member since March 2005
 
Posted by jimmothershead  -  04/10/2007 10:22 AM
Hi, Dale.......I am a bit lost. You have a bucks up LT-1 injected engine, bucks up components> S&P< to get the LT-1 in the car, a bucks up built in tank pump........so why is $35 too much for a stainless overflow? And most of the time LT-1 means a bucks up street rod? Check with Yogi's in this site.

Fun with street rods. Jim
Jim [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Huntingtown, Maryland
 
Posted by shooterx  -  04/10/2007 10:53 AM
I used a Taco Bell Border Buster Bottle in the 90's when I was drag racing. My street rod has a polished aluminum overflow tank I purchased fron ebay ($25). Your less than $2 option is an empty 24oz. Budweiser Can. If you don't have $2 get one out of the back of my pickup.....
shooterx [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] St. Louis, Missouri
 
Posted by buick1  -  04/10/2007 12:19 PM
shooterx, where is is parked? Let's see, HOW MUCH WILL YOU PAY ME TO CLEAN THAT TRUCK BED UP? Wow, I might end up getting paid to get a overflow can, such a dea. well, MAYBE.


Smitty
buick1 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Indianapolis, Indiana
 
Posted by buick1  -  04/10/2007 12:37 PM
jimsnicecar, yes, I can afford to buy one, but I need to replace what I have and thought someone out there would share an idea or two for me to consider. I'm NOT cheap, just thought it would be fun, FUN IS GOOD. My Buick 1941 Limited, 142" wheel base sits on late Vette, front & rear, new engine, tranny, 40 yards of Ultra-leather, I have alittle over 30k in the car. I did all but paint and interior, but was just thinking, that's all. Thanks for wondering, the asking.


Smitty
buick1 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Indianapolis, Indiana
 
Posted by shooterx  -  04/10/2007 02:27 PM
Smitty, the cans alone are probably worth a fortune-or sell them to other rodders for overflows and make a mint! Another Idea... some guys are using those minature brass fire extinguishers.... something different
shooterx [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] St. Louis, Missouri
 
Posted by aroldfut  -  04/10/2007 03:52 PM
Something different?.....Years ago I made a catch-can out of a WWII German aluminum canteen I bought at a junk store. It went well with the air cleaner I made from an antique cuspidor. I was a 'rat-rodder' and didn't know it.
aroldfut [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Russellville, Arkansas Charter Member since August 2003
 
Posted by foxy40  -  04/11/2007 03:27 PM
If you look around at some of the larger liquor stores, Budweiser & others are making some very tall Nascar related cans. With the right type of can mounting, you could easily change the can depending on what part of country you are going to.
foxy40 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Upton, Massachusetts
 
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