No heat soak starter
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No heat soak starter
Posted: March 26 2007 02:09 PM
 
Joe Pellicane (aka JoeP) [ View ] [ joe.pellicane@verizon.net ] [ Car Ads ] [ Blogs ]
Somerset, New Jersey

 Joe
 
Been having a problem with heat soak . 355 Chevy starter really not tight to the headers. But when driving a while shut off engine ,starter will not turn over until it cools down. Battery is in the trunk, ran number 4 cable to starter. Can Anyone recommend starter that will work? Tried a Power master starter heat soak again.
 
 
Comments
 
Posted by Crazyhorse Rod Shop  -  03/26/2007 02:25 PM
i use delco remy from the chevy house. every car i've had to fix was simply a cheaper starter. i replace with a new one first then check for other causes. i refuse to even try others any more.
dont poke the porchdog........he bites [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] BLUFF DALE, Texas Charter Member since March 2003
 
Posted by meangene  -  03/26/2007 02:26 PM
how about a heat sheild for the starter.had that trouble once and that cured the problem
even a blind hog finds a acorn [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Labadie, Missouri
 
Posted by tlp1968  -  03/26/2007 02:46 PM
Well I agree with both guys so far, make sure you have a good starter, use some sort of heat shield (we have some header heat wrap on one of ours) however we also switched to a Ford Solenoid which is up on the firewall away from the heat and run huge wire (I think it is a 0) to the battery in the trunk. With all those issues addressed and a good ground you should be fine.
StreetRodding.com Marketing Director [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Springfield, Illinois Charter Member since August 2003
 
Posted by JoeP  -  03/26/2007 02:50 PM
Tried heat shield. Shine do you have a part number? I have a staggered bolt pattern. When I go to parts store it's a zoo, what make Ford what engine 350, what model roadster, what ! what year is the car 32, they didn't have 350 engines. And on and on.
Joe [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Somerset, New Jersey
 
Posted by coupe32  -  03/26/2007 04:33 PM
If your timming is advance to far starter will not turn over untill engine cools try running the motor at idle for a few mins and if this occurs try backing off of timming it may only be a simple timmiing adjment chevs are like this. I run the 32 with a 400 stroker and power master starter never once had a problem only when timmiing was out I reset the timming and bingo cured
coupe32 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] nuremberg, Pennsylvannia
 
Posted by aroldfut  -  03/26/2007 05:29 PM
I've had the same problem with two different small blocks, a 355 and a 383. According to what I was told by "experts"(?), the solenoid plunger and solenoid housing expand at different rates which causes the solenoid to stick. Cooling it down allows the plunger to slide and start. All I know for sure is that the solution for both of my cars was a Painless Performance Products"HotShot". It basically bypasses all the intermediate electrical wiring and sends a 'hotshot' directly to the solenoid. Never had a failure after installing them. They have two models, the expensive one (around $50) includes an underhood 'bump-start' button which comes in handy for timing/valve adjusting. Or the about $30 model which just makes your hot small block start. Painless is great to do business with and they stand by their products.
aroldfut [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Russellville, Arkansas Charter Member since August 2003
 
Posted by JAWS  -  03/26/2007 05:08 PM
I run #4 wire for my charge line from the alt to the starter stud. Try #1 for the main cables and make sure the ground is the same size to the frame and from the frame to the engine.

I use the stock mini starters that GM sell for the 502 and they are also used on 98 4.3 v6's. Should come with bolts, if not I've had to buy some from the Dealer. They are 4.33" long and have a 3/8 thread.
An electrical headache can make a great car a pain [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Boise, Idaho Charter Member since August 2004
 
Posted by protruck69orange  -  03/26/2007 06:56 PM
like crazyhorse said use delco starter,i have put them on big block chevys with 12 to 1 squeeze, never had a problem with heat sink,start every time,
protruck69orange [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] kountze, Texas
 
Posted by JoeP  -  03/26/2007 07:08 PM
It may be over kill but I don't like sitting waiting for this thing to cool down, I will install a new Delco starter plus hot shot relay from painless. Cheyenne is this starter staggered bolt ,or straight? I need staggered. If so do you have part number.
Joe [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Somerset, New Jersey
 
Posted by da34guy  -  03/26/2007 08:19 PM
JoeP--- Also try changin out the lead wire to #2 welding lead wire. More strands and less voltage and ampheres drop. Havn't used battery cable for over 20 years and have never had a problem, also check timing ( it's very critical on a warm engine. Good luck
Don [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Prescott, Arizona Charter Member since October 2001
 
Posted by JAWS  -  03/26/2007 09:10 PM
Staggered. I'll look for the part #
An electrical headache can make a great car a pain [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Boise, Idaho Charter Member since August 2004
 
Posted by JAWS  -  03/26/2007 09:18 PM
GM part # 9000852


Straight from the listing of parts on the 502 Ramjet. If it will crank that, it should have no problem cranking yours. However like Don said getting enough volts to the starter is the most important aspect. Low voltage is the #1 cause of starter failure and premature wear.-Brant
An electrical headache can make a great car a pain [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Boise, Idaho Charter Member since August 2004
 
Posted by fitzwell   -  03/27/2007 10:21 AM
x2 on the larger cable.you need at least 2ga. 1ga weld cable would be even better. How is the chassis/engine grounded?
normal?? Normal is a cycle on a washing machine [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] benbrook, Texas
 
Posted by JoeP  -  03/27/2007 01:24 PM
Chassis grounded from battery and engine with ground strap from chassis to engine block. Thanks to every one for the input on this problem.
Joe [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Somerset, New Jersey
 
Posted by hotrodford41  -  03/27/2007 05:43 PM
Joe: I had the same problem with my 1941 Ford pickup that I installed a ZZ4 350 motor.... tried a different diameter battery cable, and a shield but the problem soon returned. I second what "AROLDFUT" says about the "Hotshot" sold by a few different vendors. I purchased one and have not had one heatsoak problem yet!!! Great product! Very easy to install - it takes more time to figure out where the best place to mount it than it does to do the installation! Give it a try!
hotrodford41 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Jacksonville, Arkansas
 
Posted by amy14760yahoocom  -  03/27/2007 09:51 PM
joe i agree with most the post for help i also have had the same troubles . well known chevy trouble . i tried heat shields no luck then onto heavier battery wire alittle better . then went after the distributor hei type and found the vaccum advance was sticking some times . i repl the old hei with accel dist it cured the trouble . oh i also went with the hot shot system that was a big help at a low cost . just mount it as close to the battery as possible . i am sure with all the response you'll getter right start with the least costly and work forward bob in ny looking towards the car show season
amy14760yahoocom [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] allegany, New York Charter Member since July 2005
 
Posted by JAWS  -  03/27/2007 10:00 PM
You can do the same with a ford solenoid.

Run a jumper wire say #10-12 from the small terminal S on the GM starter to the large battery terminal. Run the cable from the battery to the left large terminal on the Ford solenoid, another one from the other side to the main stud on the starter, finally connect the wire you normally had on the S terminal (usually a purple wire) to the Left side small terminal on the Ford solenoid. Make sure when you mount the solenoid to the firewall or fender that it is grounded through the mount bolt. If the car is a glass car you will have to run a ground wire to the mount bolt.


I will scare up a diagram to help...-Brant
An electrical headache can make a great car a pain [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Boise, Idaho Charter Member since August 2004
 
Posted by JAWS  -  03/27/2007 10:11 PM
Hope this loads and if it does hope it helps out...


-Brant
An electrical headache can make a great car a pain [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Boise, Idaho Charter Member since August 2004
 
Posted by dixie  -  03/28/2007 01:08 AM
delco on mine new not rebuilt no problem
jim grace [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] dade city, Florida Charter Member since January 2006
 
Posted by jimmothershead  -  03/28/2007 10:31 PM
Hey, Joe.... #2 CU, AWG minimum. I use 1/0 on all my jobs. #2 min ground cable must run to 3/8 bolt by starter.

See ya at Hershey and York.

Jim Mothershead
Jim [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Huntingtown, Maryland
 
Posted by JoeP  -  03/29/2007 04:05 PM
Picked up new cables today and a ford solenoid, Brant the diagram didn't load but found one on the net. Will install over the weekend. Jim don't know about Hershey but will be at York, I will email you when we get close to June and maybe we can hook up. Joe
Joe [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Somerset, New Jersey
 
Posted by buzz4041  -  09/14/2008 01:50 PM
Joe,


How did that ford solenoid work out for you ? Did it solve your heat soak problems ?
buzz4041 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Corpus Christi, Texas
 
Posted by Bill33  -  09/14/2008 11:31 PM
I use the small diameter Chevrolet starter. I was told it had bearings instead of bushings on the main drive, not sure if that is the case, but I haven't had the problem since I switched over......good luck!
Bill33 [ View ] [ Email ] [ Blogs ] [ Car Ads ] Victoria, Canada
 
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