Ground Strap

Mar 11, 2017 8:03 AM - 2156 Views Create A New Thread

Builder's Corner

By Contact Information
robymarks

Tomball, TX



What size?
If I'm running a ground strap from the engine to the frame, does it need to be substantial like 0/1? I know I've heard that running from a bell housing bolt to the frame is good. Ring in here guys! Thanks!




The forum at StreetRodding post today Willie Moore





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Comments
  • GeneF
    Jul 26, 2017 at 7:45 PM


  • I want to ask a question, and this thread seems like a logical group to ask. Perhaps Jim has the answer, as it seems he knows quite a bit about wiring.
    I hate to admit it, but I have been running on the previous owners welding wire setup to provide the POSITIVE 12V to my starter and electrical system. (Battery is in the trunk, and no I'm not relying on the high carbon frame for grounding.) I'm rounding up some parts for some off-season maintenance projects I want to do to my car, and I thought I'd just run over to Jegs with a list. (I live in Columbus, OH - they had another store in Cols, but closed it). The problem is that I believe that bigger is better, and their catlogue shows #2. Seems Like I recall #1 as being the wire to use to feed the starter? And, how am I gonna crimp that end on there? I can cut it to size, and then pinch it in my vice. Can also use a soldering gun and drop some solder in there, then shrink tube it.... I don't want to chance it when I go in there and hand them my cable that they will know what gauge wire, and that it's the heavy strands, not the welding style wire. My cable will give them the length that I need, since my car already runs. The setup I have just bugs me. I'm a little bit of a perfectionist about some things on a rod!
    So what do I tell them?
    How many strands should be in it? If the answer id something like 96 forget it, I already have that stuff.
    Remember, we need to assume I'll be talking to a moron. Some of their guys are real pros, but as the older guys leave the younger ones are morons. They still make their guys go for polygraph tests 2 x per year! They have one really good guy named Rick, that's been there for I know over 20 years. Can you imagine! I 'da left that silliness long ago. There is more to the polygraph story, but I'll leave it at that.

  • 32 Dodge
    Apr 11, 2017 at 6:40 PM


  • Hey Jim,
    I finally got the fuel management problems solved. Now the hood fits on and the fuel is under the blower case! As it should be.
    Car is running good and I will trek down to Prince Frederick when we get a Saturday with no chance of rain.


  • jimmothershead
    Apr 10, 2017 at 10:49 AM


  • Hey Jim this is Kenny ( okie34). I thought I had your information but I dont. Please private message me at kennydaily64@gmail.com. I talked to you about a brake light switch.

  • jimmothershead
    Apr 9, 2017 at 8:38 AM


  • Jeff/Tazhog........yes, yes..you learned about proper grounding about 40 years ago. You are one fine rod builder. Headed to Good Guys Raliegh NC ??

    32 Dodge, Ron Francis, the best wire kit. Our new K-Mart Kruize Nite in Prince Frederick is kickin' butt. See ya there every Saturday.


  • jimmothershead
    Apr 9, 2017 at 8:30 AM


  • Jaybird
    Was the 1/0 battery ground cable connected directly to the back of the block ?
    Jim 410 535 1933


  • jimmothershead
    Apr 9, 2017 at 8:26 AM


  • Roby
    The size of a conductor is determined by the load. A starter can pull 120 amps when turning over so run a 1/0 ground cable from negative battery post to back of engine. 3/8" bellhousing bolt near the starter. From there a #10 to the frame. From there a #10 to a grounding block over the steering column. I use 3 grounding blocks in a wire job...ya can never have too many grounds.
    All current consuming devices must have a dedicated ground......the same as the neutral/white wire in your home. Steel is a resistor not a conductor, so do not depend on steel to move only 12 volts effectively. Most street rods today are loaded with electronic devices that depend on a true 12 volts.
    Every time I have a guy with a starting problem, it is not the starter, it is not the header heat, it IS incorrect grounding from the battery to the starter. He has grounded the battery straight to the frame. Then a cable up front from the frame to the engine = WRONG. Most of the time the battery is in the trunk 13 feet away from the starter. He is trying to push 120 amps with only 12 volts thru steel resistor frame and not considering voltage drop. So he is lucky if he has 10 volts when turning over the starter.
    Another constant issue is electric fan improper wiring and quartz halogen headlights that are grounded to sheet metal and not to the ground block. Undersized conductors also.
    Figure electric like a 1/2" pipe connected to the discharge side of your toilet.........go ahead, flush this morning's dump down that 1/2" pipe...........
    Needless to say, make certain all contact points are clean and tight.
    In 1957 at The School Of Hot Rod Hard Knocks, I learned how critical proper grounding is on my first engine swap. Since then I have wired about 200 cars. I carry 23 active Master Electrical licences here on the East Coast since 1966.....don't mean to be bragging just trying to make a point.
    Questions ?, Jim, 410 535 1933 at The School of Hot Rod Hard Knocks since 1957


  • Jaybird
    Apr 4, 2017 at 9:01 PM


  • What Sam said. I pretty much ruined a motor/intake/radiator from electrolysis last year. Had just put this motor together and put the car away for the winter. I forgot to shut the battery switch off. The system was grounding through the coolant from the radiator to the block. This is what my thermostat looked like afterwards....not to mention the heads and intake.


  • GeneF
    Apr 4, 2017 at 12:19 PM


  • I ran across a picture...


  • SAM1951
    Mar 18, 2017 at 9:03 PM


  • aluminum radiators must be grounded too!!
    SAM

  • 36sedan
    Mar 17, 2017 at 9:45 PM


  • https://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/bci-72092.pdf



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